Pro-Xylane
To remodel the architecture of skin tissue, which is altered by the ageing process, L’Oréal researchers have focused on developing substances capable of stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs).
GAGs are the main components in the skin’s extracellular matrix, which deteriorates with age. Consequently, they are a prime target for restoring the skin’s elasticity and tone, which are diminished during skin ageing.
The result is Pro-Xylane, an active ingredient produced by Novéal, in accordance with eco-responsible commitments. Biosourced, it is obtained from xylose, a natural sugar present in beech wood, which is used in the paper industry. A co-product of papermaking, xylose is extracted using an environmentally-friendly green chemistry process as part of a circular economy process.
Today, Pro-Xylane is a benchmark anti-ageing ingredient in the field of cosmetics.
GAGs are the main components in the skin’s extracellular matrix, which deteriorates with age. Consequently, they are a prime target for restoring the skin’s elasticity and tone, which are diminished during skin ageing.
The result is Pro-Xylane, an active ingredient produced by Novéal, in accordance with eco-responsible commitments. Biosourced, it is obtained from xylose, a natural sugar present in beech wood, which is used in the paper industry. A co-product of papermaking, xylose is extracted using an environmentally-friendly green chemistry process as part of a circular economy process.
Today, Pro-Xylane is a benchmark anti-ageing ingredient in the field of cosmetics.
Plancton
External stressors, such as pollution, changes in weather or UV rays, trigger the production of free radicals, which attack the skin cells via an oxidation mechanism and thereby accelerate the skin ageing process.
In 1970, researchers discovered and isolated an ingredient in natural spring water that has unique benefits for the skin: Life Plankton, also called Vitreoscilla filiformis. This microorganism emerged three billion years ago in natural spring waters and the plankton is extracted from micro-algae using Novéal biotechnology expertise.
The plankton extract serves as a veritable "cellular collaborator" in the skin, interacting with the main cell families: keratinocytes, Langerhans cells, fibroblasts. It is one of the only active ingredients to possess such a broad spectrum of biological properties: antimicrobial and antioxidant, it helps the skin reinforce its own natural defences while also exerting a regenerating activity.
In 1970, researchers discovered and isolated an ingredient in natural spring water that has unique benefits for the skin: Life Plankton, also called Vitreoscilla filiformis. This microorganism emerged three billion years ago in natural spring waters and the plankton is extracted from micro-algae using Novéal biotechnology expertise.
The plankton extract serves as a veritable "cellular collaborator" in the skin, interacting with the main cell families: keratinocytes, Langerhans cells, fibroblasts. It is one of the only active ingredients to possess such a broad spectrum of biological properties: antimicrobial and antioxidant, it helps the skin reinforce its own natural defences while also exerting a regenerating activity.
Ceramides
Ceramides are complex lipids, naturally present in the skin, hair and nails.
Essential components of the intercellular cement, they ensure good cohesion between skin cells and smooth hair fibre scales. But the effects of external stressors and the natural deterioration of ceramides as we age show that our skin and hair need additional protection.
Scientists at L'Oréal Advanced Research have therefore created synthetic ceramides with a similar structure to natural ceramides. These innovative ceramides, produced by Novéal using eco-design processes, act by biomimicry to give extra protection, to restructure the skin and protect and smooth the hair fibre.
Essential components of the intercellular cement, they ensure good cohesion between skin cells and smooth hair fibre scales. But the effects of external stressors and the natural deterioration of ceramides as we age show that our skin and hair need additional protection.
Scientists at L'Oréal Advanced Research have therefore created synthetic ceramides with a similar structure to natural ceramides. These innovative ceramides, produced by Novéal using eco-design processes, act by biomimicry to give extra protection, to restructure the skin and protect and smooth the hair fibre.
Mexoryl SX-Mexoryl XL
There are two types of ultraviolet rays - UVB and UVA - and they both have an impact on our skin.
Although they only account for 5% of total UV radiation, UVB rays are nonetheless very strong and have visible effects in the short term: sunburn, which is directly linked to skin cancer.
UVA rays, on the other hand, are less powerful, but represent 95% of total UV radiation. They penetrate the dermis, altering and damaging the deep structures of our skin. Year after year, with chronic and repeated exposure, the clinical signs of ageing become visible: wrinkles, pigment spots, poor skin quality.
A genuine disruptive innovation in the 1980s, the Mexoryl SX filter, invented by L'Oréal Advanced Research and eco-designed by Novéal, provides optimal UVA protection. A few years later, this sun filter was joined by Mexoryl XL, designed to provide balanced UVA and UVB protection and thereby prevent the clinical effects of short and long-term exposure.
Although they only account for 5% of total UV radiation, UVB rays are nonetheless very strong and have visible effects in the short term: sunburn, which is directly linked to skin cancer.
UVA rays, on the other hand, are less powerful, but represent 95% of total UV radiation. They penetrate the dermis, altering and damaging the deep structures of our skin. Year after year, with chronic and repeated exposure, the clinical signs of ageing become visible: wrinkles, pigment spots, poor skin quality.
A genuine disruptive innovation in the 1980s, the Mexoryl SX filter, invented by L'Oréal Advanced Research and eco-designed by Novéal, provides optimal UVA protection. A few years later, this sun filter was joined by Mexoryl XL, designed to provide balanced UVA and UVB protection and thereby prevent the clinical effects of short and long-term exposure.
Rose cells
Biotechnologies use biomimicry to create substances that are inspired by and imitate nature.
This approach is an extraordinary source of innovation in the field of cosmetics. For example, certain plant cells have the capacity to regenerate after various types of aggression.
Since 1995, Novéal Tours, our specialist plant biotechnologies unit, has been developing dedifferenciated plant cell cultures, in particular Lancôme rose cells, created by Georges Delbard in 1974. Scientists working at L'Oréal Advanced Research have managed to extract an active ingredient that has regenerating properties on skin tissue.
Aminexil
The hair life cycle is a physiological phenomenon that consists of 3 phases: the anagen (or growth) phase, the catagen (or transitional) phase and the telogen (or resting) phase. Hair growth depends on several factors. Each individual hair follows its own cycle: the hair grows and after several years, it becomes detached from the hair follicle and falls out. A new bulb then forms and a new hair begins its life cycle.
Another type of hair loss also exists, called alopecia. Scientific studies have revealed a number of causes of alopecia: hereditary factors, hormonal imbalances, stress, chemotherapy or dietary deficiencies.
L'Oréal's researchers have developed Aminexil to fight against hair thinning.
This active ingredient, eco-designed by Novéal, reduces hair loss by preventing hardening of the collagen sheath surrounding the hair follicle. It slows hair loss and stimulates the production of hair components.
Another type of hair loss also exists, called alopecia. Scientific studies have revealed a number of causes of alopecia: hereditary factors, hormonal imbalances, stress, chemotherapy or dietary deficiencies.
L'Oréal's researchers have developed Aminexil to fight against hair thinning.
This active ingredient, eco-designed by Novéal, reduces hair loss by preventing hardening of the collagen sheath surrounding the hair follicle. It slows hair loss and stimulates the production of hair components.
Stemoxydine
Depending on the periods of our lives, we may sometimes have the impression that we have less hair.
Rather than genuine hair loss, this thinning is often related to a reduction in hair density. This is caused by decrease in stem cell activity in the hair follicles. As a result, these no longer fulfil their natural regenerating role.
To overcome the problem, researchers at L'Oréal have worked with Novéal to jointly develop Stemoxydine, an ingredient that mimics the optimal stem cell environment and thereby reawakens dormant hairs. Hair is therefore denser and more resistant, with its strength and volume restored.
Rather than genuine hair loss, this thinning is often related to a reduction in hair density. This is caused by decrease in stem cell activity in the hair follicles. As a result, these no longer fulfil their natural regenerating role.
To overcome the problem, researchers at L'Oréal have worked with Novéal to jointly develop Stemoxydine, an ingredient that mimics the optimal stem cell environment and thereby reawakens dormant hairs. Hair is therefore denser and more resistant, with its strength and volume restored.
SP94
One of the causes of alopecia may be a lack of nutritional elements in the hair follicles. To supplement Aminexil anti-hair loss treatment, L'Oréal Research has developed SP94.
Containing glucose and linoleic acid, it meets the essential requirements of the hair bulb, providing the nutrients and energy needed to maintain the architecture of the follicle.
This ingredient, produced by Novéal, therefore helps to reconstruct strong hair fibres.
Containing glucose and linoleic acid, it meets the essential requirements of the hair bulb, providing the nutrients and energy needed to maintain the architecture of the follicle.
This ingredient, produced by Novéal, therefore helps to reconstruct strong hair fibres.
